This is all for a very exciting project that I am working on. More details on that will be coming soon.
Quirkessential quir·kes·sen·tial [kwur-kuh-sen-shuh'l] adjective 1. Derived from the word ‘quintessential’ as in: the quintessential British tailor. ‘Quirk’ a peculiarity of action, behavior, or personality; mannerism. ‘Essential’ absolutely necessary; indispensable.
26/01/2012
Hot off the Row
I've just got in some new cloth from the kind people at Holland & Sherry of Savile Row. Here you can see some beautiful dark green cotton velvet, a blue and black 100% wool Herringbone, a grey and red Donegal tweed and a 100% worsted wool purple and white Herringbone.
This is all for a very exciting project that I am working on. More details on that will be coming soon.
This is all for a very exciting project that I am working on. More details on that will be coming soon.
25/01/2012
Look out winter 2012/13
Last week saw the catwalks of Milan light up again with some magnificent shows from the likes of Prada, Gucci, Dolce and Gabbana and Alexander McQueen for their menswear fall 2012/13 collections. So there will be some trends to look out for next winter.
Gucci Gucci
There were a trends of high gauges, double breasted, kneelength coats, drain pipe trousers and overall well fitted garments. There were some beatiful colour palletes along with black that constited of deep rich colours including turquoise, burgundy, yellow, red, navy and puple.
Gucci Dolce and Gabbana
Mix these with multi tonal fabrics including floral and camouflage. Also a variant of textures and fabrics including velvets, furs, leathers, wool, tweeds, silks, satins, patent leather and sequins. Details and embellishments included gold zips fastenings and embroidery.
Dolce and Gabbana Alexander Mqueen
A lot had a 19th century decant feel. So I hate to say I told you so.
Alexander McQueen Prada
My favourite shows have to be, Prada with their use of blacks and reds, long coats and fur collars. Not to mention using some of Hollywoods elite as models including Adrien Brody, Emile Hirsch, Gary Oldman, Jamie Bell, Tim Roth, and William Dafoe.
Prada Dolce and Gabbana
My other favourite show was Dolce and Gabbana with the shear gravitas of the show its self and the beautifully embroidered jackets and capes.
Gucci Gucci
There were a trends of high gauges, double breasted, kneelength coats, drain pipe trousers and overall well fitted garments. There were some beatiful colour palletes along with black that constited of deep rich colours including turquoise, burgundy, yellow, red, navy and puple.
Alexander McQueen Gucci
Gucci Dolce and Gabbana
Mix these with multi tonal fabrics including floral and camouflage. Also a variant of textures and fabrics including velvets, furs, leathers, wool, tweeds, silks, satins, patent leather and sequins. Details and embellishments included gold zips fastenings and embroidery.
Dolce and Gabbana Alexander Mqueen
A lot had a 19th century decant feel. So I hate to say I told you so.
Alexander McQueen Prada
My favourite shows have to be, Prada with their use of blacks and reds, long coats and fur collars. Not to mention using some of Hollywoods elite as models including Adrien Brody, Emile Hirsch, Gary Oldman, Jamie Bell, Tim Roth, and William Dafoe.
Prada Dolce and Gabbana
My other favourite show was Dolce and Gabbana with the shear gravitas of the show its self and the beautifully embroidered jackets and capes.
21/01/2012
Tattoos and Tailoring
Zombie Boy
Rick Genest (AKA ZOMBIE BOY) has had a real life rags to riches tail. After leaving high school at 17 he immersed himself in the underground punk rock scene in Montreal and was homeless and living in abandoned buildings. He got his first tattoo at 16 which was a a skull and crossbones on his left shoulder. By 19 he was committed to his full body tattoo project and stayed loyal to Montreal artist Frank Lewis, who designed the majority of his body over the next six years.
In early January 2011, he was spotted on a Facebook page by a one Nicola Formichetti, Lady Gaga’s personal stylist and the creative director of the legendary Paris based fashion house Theirry Mugler. Formichetti flew to Montreal to meet Genest to complete an extensive photo and video shoot for Thierry Mugler’s fall 2011 campaign. The two clicked instantly and Formichetti invited Genest to Paris to model in the Mugler men’s fashion show. It was the first time Rick had ever travelled outside Canada, and incidentally his first time on a plane. Acting as his mentor of sorts, Formichetti then cast Genest in his biggest role to date; a pronounced cameo in Lady Gaga’s video ‘Born This Way’ filmed in New York City.
His relationship with Formichetti has clearly been a boon for his career, and has since seen him pose for such magazines as GQ, Vanity Fair and Vogue Hommes Japan, as well as a collaboration with the juggernaut of the fashion photography world – the renowned —L’Enfant terrible Terry Richardson.
Rick Genest (AKA ZOMBIE BOY) has had a real life rags to riches tail. After leaving high school at 17 he immersed himself in the underground punk rock scene in Montreal and was homeless and living in abandoned buildings. He got his first tattoo at 16 which was a a skull and crossbones on his left shoulder. By 19 he was committed to his full body tattoo project and stayed loyal to Montreal artist Frank Lewis, who designed the majority of his body over the next six years.
In early January 2011, he was spotted on a Facebook page by a one Nicola Formichetti, Lady Gaga’s personal stylist and the creative director of the legendary Paris based fashion house Theirry Mugler. Formichetti flew to Montreal to meet Genest to complete an extensive photo and video shoot for Thierry Mugler’s fall 2011 campaign. The two clicked instantly and Formichetti invited Genest to Paris to model in the Mugler men’s fashion show. It was the first time Rick had ever travelled outside Canada, and incidentally his first time on a plane. Acting as his mentor of sorts, Formichetti then cast Genest in his biggest role to date; a pronounced cameo in Lady Gaga’s video ‘Born This Way’ filmed in New York City.
His relationship with Formichetti has clearly been a boon for his career, and has since seen him pose for such magazines as GQ, Vanity Fair and Vogue Hommes Japan, as well as a collaboration with the juggernaut of the fashion photography world – the renowned —L’Enfant terrible Terry Richardson.
19/01/2012
Tuxedo 'the aftermath'
Other VIP stars who have been shot in their favourite tuxedos, with an accompanying vignette outlining what makes this distinctive item of clothing so iconic, include supermodel Marie Helvin, musician Mr Hudson, Gordon Richardson (Topman) and jeweller Robert Tateossian.
In September 2011 the tuxedo was flown out to New York where it went on exhibition in the Tuxedo Park Historical Society and I was lucky enough to be flown out with it to attend the Tuxedo Park Autumn Ball which was sponsored by Giorgio Armani. But more on this later.
There is now talk of the exhibition going on to Brazil, Hong Kong and China.
So I like to take this opportunity to thank a everybody who was involved in the project;
My tutors Christopher Stevens,Steven Dell and Alan Cannon-Jones. Roma Vaccaro and Ben Whyman for managing and curating. Everyone at London College of Fashion. The Gentleman from Henry Poole, Angus and Simon Cundey, Alex cooke and Craig featherstone. Frederic Dormeuil and Patrick Bunting from Dormeuil for there kind fabric sponsorship. Deborah Harmon and everyone at Tuxedo Park. The kind people at the V&A for letting us into there archives. Finally just everyone who had input to this project without who all of this would not be possible.
I now look forward to getting my tuxedo back so I can wear it
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| Me, David Adams & model Olivia Inge |
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| Gordon Richardson |
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| Harold Tillman, CBE |
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| Marie Helvin |
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| Mr Hudson |
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| Robert Tateossian |
18/01/2012
Tuxedo
Happy Anniversary
Last year was the 150th anniversary of the little black jacket. A resident of Tuxedo Park New York, James Brown Potter vacation in England and were introduce to the then Price of Wales who later became King Edward VII, After asking advice on Formal dress Mr Potter went to Henry Poole & Co of Savile Row wear he was fitted a short black black jacket with no tails. Once taken back to the United States and worn for the first time at formal events it was to be forever know as the 'tuxedo'.
To celebrate this iconic garment I teamed up with Henry Poole in a project to reinvent to tuxedo for the modern gentleman. The inspirations for my tuxedo have came from looking at pre and post its invention. After doing my initial research on the Tuxedo and it origins, the fact that it derived from the tail coat and how it has evolved into the modern dinner jacket we all know today, I started to play around with period looks but with modern cuts. I have taken inspiration from all eras from 17th century brocade and 19th century British Regency to Dickinson and the modern catwalk. I wanted to take the best parts of these eras as well as a mix of dinner jacket, frock coat, tail coat, dressing gown, smoking jacket and create something new with a traditional beauty. Together with Dormeuil fabric I used brocade silks, jacquards, satins to craft an outfit that is splendiferous, I want it to be lavish and decadent, and I want the wearer to feel like a king.
Last year was the 150th anniversary of the little black jacket. A resident of Tuxedo Park New York, James Brown Potter vacation in England and were introduce to the then Price of Wales who later became King Edward VII, After asking advice on Formal dress Mr Potter went to Henry Poole & Co of Savile Row wear he was fitted a short black black jacket with no tails. Once taken back to the United States and worn for the first time at formal events it was to be forever know as the 'tuxedo'.
To celebrate this iconic garment I teamed up with Henry Poole in a project to reinvent to tuxedo for the modern gentleman. The inspirations for my tuxedo have came from looking at pre and post its invention. After doing my initial research on the Tuxedo and it origins, the fact that it derived from the tail coat and how it has evolved into the modern dinner jacket we all know today, I started to play around with period looks but with modern cuts. I have taken inspiration from all eras from 17th century brocade and 19th century British Regency to Dickinson and the modern catwalk. I wanted to take the best parts of these eras as well as a mix of dinner jacket, frock coat, tail coat, dressing gown, smoking jacket and create something new with a traditional beauty. Together with Dormeuil fabric I used brocade silks, jacquards, satins to craft an outfit that is splendiferous, I want it to be lavish and decadent, and I want the wearer to feel like a king.
If the dress coat could be described as the
most elegant of nineteenth century male attire, then the frock coat must be the
most dignified. Combined with the top hat, the general effect was very
impressive.
From a technical point of view, the frock
coat follows a similar development to the dress coat. The standard pattern has
a panel at the front (double-breasted), a waist seam (I 820s) and - by 1840 —
it included the sidebody panel. Waist
lines were raised or lowered and sleeve styles changed according to prevailing
fashion. There were also variations in the coat length.
Apart from changes in the style of collar
and lapel, the most notable difference in the frock coat from one period to
another was in the style of the skirt. This ranged from being very full and
flared in the earlier period to hanging straight with very little fullness from
1880 to 1900.
Towards the end of the century the frock
coat was mainly replaced by the morning coat.
My Jacket at a photo shoot in Paris
and at the launch party at Quintessentially, London.
Wes Anderson
I am thoroughly looking forward to Wes Andersons new film 'Moonrise Kingdom'. An all star cast about a pair of lovers flee their New England town, which causes a local search party to fan out and find them. This film is from the same creative mind that brought us the likes of Rushmore, The Royal Tenenbaums, The Life Aquatic with Steve Zissou, The Darjeeling Limited and Fantasic Mr Fox.
Being a stylish gent himself there is always attention to detail in the fashion and costume in his films and there is always some great tailoring, I especial like the colour pallets used in the whole of The Royal Tenenbaums.
You can certainly see his inspiration for Fantastic Mr Fox.
Being a stylish gent himself there is always attention to detail in the fashion and costume in his films and there is always some great tailoring, I especial like the colour pallets used in the whole of The Royal Tenenbaums.
You can certainly see his inspiration for Fantastic Mr Fox.
16/01/2012
Timothy Everest by Joshua Osborne
Video
While I was interning at Timothy Everest I got to be a part of this video made by student Joshua Osborne.
While I was interning at Timothy Everest I got to be a part of this video made by student Joshua Osborne.
A Winning Suit
My Timothy Everest Inspired Suit
In the Autumn term of my second year on the BA Hons Bespoke tailoring course at London College of Fashion we had to undertake a project that involved collabroating with the tailoring house Timothy Everest. In this project I had to design and make a suit that compliments his casual collection.
In the Autumn term of my second year on the BA Hons Bespoke tailoring course at London College of Fashion we had to undertake a project that involved collabroating with the tailoring house Timothy Everest. In this project I had to design and make a suit that compliments his casual collection.
Design Rationale:
My design inspiration has been the 1980’s popular
culture and art work. After looking at
what people are wear in the age demographic of early 20’s to early 30’s, from
high end fashion to streetwear I have notice a 1980’s trend emerging. I took my main inspiration from the artists
Andy Warhol and Patrick Nagel, with their use of bright block colours. I have taken the best of the traditional
tailoring and combine it with the eccentric colours of that era. The client I choose to embody my design is
the musician and producer Mark Ronson, he is at the heart of the young music
scene and dresses with the much needed sense of style. With this in mind I used my connections with
a friend of mine to tailor make this suit to the lead singer and guitarist of
The Strangerhood, Dean Austin. This
mixed with the dandyism of detail that the tailor Timothy Everest puts into his
work; I have fused these ideas with the vintage county look and the slim
fitting contemporary style into a bespoke suit that is fit for any gentleman
who also likes to go raving.
Timothy Everest
My Internship
Back in March 2011 I was lucky enough to win an internship with the tailoring house of Timothy Everest at his design studio. I was chosen on the merit of my work after doing a project in collaboration with them. I was really happy to expenicing the way that they work at Timothy Evesest as he is a big infulence on me. I find we share the same sense of design and the same taste for astectics. I also admire his take on tailoring and the quintessential britishness with a modern twist that keeps it interesting, and he isn't afraid to collaborate.
After interning there I also have come to admire the way he runs his buisness, as there doesn't seem to be any sense of protensouse highroky that I have found in other fashion houses. It is a small team and everyone has their own role which is just as important as the next, it gives it a sense of a family and which is why everyone there is happy and lovely to work with, which I think helps in a creative envoirment.
Being part of there team for 6 weeks gave me a great insight into the deign process and the profeesionalism behind the work. I also got to be apart of a number a exciting projects including helping with a photo shoot for a collaboration with Urwerk a fantastic swiss watch makers which took place at the amazing Ham house in Richmond.
I also got to go to the opening of the Tommy Nutter exhibition at the Fashion and Textile Museum. This was great as being another one of my influences I not only got to see the work close up but got to enjoy it with a glass of champagne with guests including Edward sexton, Cilla Black and Ringo Star.
http://www.timothyeverest.co.uk/
http://www.timothyeverest.co.uk/
Dance with the Green Fairy
La Belle Epoque Party
From B&H events team bring you a party that takes you back to 19th century back streets of paris where the women are beautiful and the men are dandies. You can enjoy Burlesque, trapezes artists and can can dancers all while you drink champagne cocktails and absinth. What a great night.
http://www.belleepoqueparty.com/
From B&H events team bring you a party that takes you back to 19th century back streets of paris where the women are beautiful and the men are dandies. You can enjoy Burlesque, trapezes artists and can can dancers all while you drink champagne cocktails and absinth. What a great night.
http://www.belleepoqueparty.com/
New Years 2011 (almost)
Last Tuesday society, New Years Eve Eve Masked Ball 2010
The day before New Years eve 2010 took a turn for the strange and enchanched as I went to the Last Tuesday society, New Years Eve Eve Masked Ball. The Last Tuesday described as a 'pataphysical organisation dedicated to throwing parties, tea parties, parties, parties for dead people, parties for people who cry,' so I thought to myself that it sounded like a good way to celebrate the turning of the new year (or at least the day before it). What a party it was, with the dark tunnels near London Bridge tube station transformed into a decadent dislay of eccentricity. With the tag line 'Masks obligatory, clothes optional' and a giant chocolate fountain how could you go wrong?
http://www.thelasttuesdaysociety.org
The day before New Years eve 2010 took a turn for the strange and enchanched as I went to the Last Tuesday society, New Years Eve Eve Masked Ball. The Last Tuesday described as a 'pataphysical organisation dedicated to throwing parties, tea parties, parties, parties for dead people, parties for people who cry,' so I thought to myself that it sounded like a good way to celebrate the turning of the new year (or at least the day before it). What a party it was, with the dark tunnels near London Bridge tube station transformed into a decadent dislay of eccentricity. With the tag line 'Masks obligatory, clothes optional' and a giant chocolate fountain how could you go wrong?
http://www.thelasttuesdaysociety.org
Vintage 2010
Vintage 2010
Friday 13th till Sunday 15th of August 2010 played host to one of the greastest celebrations of the 20th Century and one on the greatest festivals I have ever been to. The first Vintage festival held at Goodwood in Sussex was unlike anything I had been to before, with a music line up that included The Faces, Peter Hook, Heaven 17, The Noisettes, Sandie Shaw and many more, there were was something for everyone. But it was shear amount of other things that set Vintage apart from any other festival. This included a complete town built in the middle that had bars and resturants to a hair slaon. Everywhere you went there was music, fashion, art, design, film, dance, comedy, burlesque, food and more. The clientel was this festival was also what made it, never had I been somewhere where people had embraced the spirit, were friendly and having a good time of all ages (and looked fantasic doing it)
I look forward to going back in 2012 it see how they can top it.
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