Quality over aesthetics

Celebrity has always been key in promoting fashion, none more so than movie stars.  But recently there has been a trend of using actors and actresses on the calibre of there skill in there profession rather than just on there physical appearance like in previous years.  You can see here in the Prada autumn Winter 2012-13 Milan menswear catwalk back in January, where they used Jamie Bell, Willem Dafoe, Tim Roth, Adrien Brody and Gary Oldman.

Now Prada have done it again with this Roman Polanski fashion film staring Helena Bonham Carter and Ben Kingsley, two truly great talents.

Not to say these people aren't good looking (Helena Bonham Carter is especial an extraordinarily beautiful women) but they are not the stereotypical superficial models we have seen before.  I am glad they are doing this and I think it is rather clever of Prada as by doing this they are saying and promoting not just beauty but also substance, quality, gravitas, success and talent.  Which I can relate to as a bespoke tailor as although the finished look of the suit I make is extremely important, just as important is the quality, skill and labour of love that goes into the construction.  I can also relate to Prada doing this as I have done the same for my collection and have extremely talented people modelling for me, but more on that later..

Great British Fashion Stamp

Yesterday while at Holland & Sherry of Savile Row I got to see a Tommy Nutter Suit that was originally made for Ring Star.  It was to celebrate the last 60 years of british fashion and the marking of this by Royal Mail today releasing 10 new first class stamps each with a different great british fashion designers work, which include;

• Hardy Amies
• Norman Hartnell
• Granny Takes a Trip
• Ossie Clark with Celia Birtwell
• Tommy Nutter
• Jean Muir
• Zandra Rhodes
• Vivienne Westwood
• Paul Smith
• Alexander McQueen

I just hope one day my work will make it onto a stamp.

The Dogocle

I always feel bad when I see a dog that has been dressed up by its owner in some ridiculous outfit.  People do not look good in tracksuits (especially pink velour ones), slogan T-shitrs or anything with the superman logo on it,  so why would our canine friends?


I can always tell by the look on the dogs face that it feels ashamed to be wearing such awful attire.  


So I was happy when I came across Warby Parker's limited-edition "Warby Barker" collection of vintage inspired glasses for dogs.  Finally those beautiful animals to have an accessory that actually accentuates the aesthetics, something for them to be able to celebrate their style and elegance, and nothing celebrates that more than the 'The Dog-ocle'.

http://www.warbybarker.com/

The First Suit of Many

I was flattered when a friend of mine, a Mr Ed Jackman from the band The Strangerhood asked wether I would make his wedding suit for him back in the start of 2011.  Of course I accepted.  I was nervous to start as although I had been tailoring for some time this would have been my first commissioned piece and not to mention that it would be worn on the most important day of his live.

We started with a conversation about what he wanted from this suit.  We decided on something less formal than traditional wedding attire because he wanted something he could wear again and again.  We wanted something cool and casual, yet with style and presence.  So I put together a mood board and a fabric sample collection, and over a pint we came up with some good ideas.

Finally I put together this final design board with details and influences.  We decided on two beautiful brown wools from Holland and Sherry on Savile Row and Ed picked out an electric shot satin orange lining with a sky blue piping.  The final design was a teddy boy inspired design, something that said 50's rock'n'roll yet with a modern cut.  It was a tradition Savile Row style cut with nipped in waist, roped shoulders and slim sleeve that gives the wearer a leaner look.

After drafting a pattern from Ed's measurements I cut the cloth and did a first baste and a first fitting.  There were a few minor alterations that needed to be made, for example the shape of the trouser leg and the length of the jacket.  But that is why you have more than one fitting with bespoke tailoring so that you can sculpt the small details to a perfect fit.

After a few weeks and a couple of fittings we had a finish product.  Finished with an orange top stitch and horn buttons, I also added some personal touches like the design and a personal message sewn into the bottom inside pockets.  The finished result I think was fantastic and I was really proud of it.  As you can see they both looked beautiful on the day.

And now a massive congratulations on the birth of their first child, little Leonard Darragh Jackman, I wish you all the best.

Don't Forget to Vote!

Recently I entered an Ozwald Boateng design competition to have the chance to spend some time with the designer.  He is one of my role models and the reason I got into tailoring in the first place, so I really need to win this.  So please follow the links below and first 'like' the page then click 'vote', then proceed to click 'vote' every hour for the next week.  This would be an amazing opportunity for me and my career so anything you can do would be great.  I would like you to vote for all four boards of course but if you only have time to vote for one could you make it the bottom, the final designs board.  Thank you.

Here is my entry....

'Extraordinary Journeys, inspired by Ozwald Boateng and Joules Verne. A collection designed around an adventure. Like an early explorer, one would face many hardships and obstacles, eventually fabrics would become distressed and torn, but these are worn with pride that adds character and heritage. With this worn look and its binary opposition of a clean tailored cut and refined detailing, it shows a gentleman and a dandy that can return home from having gone to the end of the earth and back, and still have the sartorial elegance to have his top button done up, his bow tie tied and his pocket handkerchief square. '

Vote here - Mood Board

Vote here - Design Development

Vote here - Accessories & Fabric

Vote here - Final Designs

What to wear this summer

If there are any gentleman out there who are worried about what they should be wearing this summer, don't be.  Never fear, I have compiled a little list of things to keep ones eye out for....

Seersucker, linen, Straw Boater, Pastel Pink, 70's style, Double Breasted, Oxford Bags, Liberty Prints, Pastel Blue, Cotton, Regatta Stripe, Straw Panama Hat, Turn ups, Wide Lapels, 1920's cut, Ivory, Peak Lapels, Cigar Brown, Fedora, Pleated front trousers.

This is what I will be wearing.....

Images courtesy of Fashion Wall Street

But here are a few more examples...,

Ozwald Boateng, 'A Man's Story'

Thursday the 23rd of February I was lucky enough to be invited to a special preview showing of Ozwalds Boatengs film 'A Man's Story' at London College of Fashion, which was followed by a Q&A with the man him self.

After a long day spent travelling around London to do fittings for a few of my clients I was excited to get to LCF in the evening for a nice sit down, some complimentary drinks and popcorn and the intriguing and inspiring story of the life of one of the most influential tailors/designers, not to mention one of my personal hero's.

For those of you who don't know who Ozwald Boateng is, he is a Savile Row tailor is part of the Renaissance and new bespoke movement, taking the traditional British tailoring craft and making it cutting edge and contemporary.  At the age of 28 he was the youngest and first first black man to have a prestigious Savile Row address.  In 2004 he was appointed as creative director of menswear at Givenchy, bridging the gap between Bespoke Tailoring and Couture Fashion design. Being British with an African heritage gives him this wonderful mix of craft and culture, something that I admire most about his garments is his beautiful attention and rock'of'eye for the cut and his amazing colour pallets.

Tailor to the Hollywood elite Ozwald Boateng started making suits at the age of 16 on his mothers old sewing machine and made a business that went from strength to strength going from a living/working studio in Portobello Road and being the first tailor to show a catwalk collection at a Paris fashion week to having his own Savile Row tailoring house and being a global fashion name.

'A Man's Story' is a documentary film about his journey through the fashion industry and the ups and downs that has lead to his success.  Director and film maker Varon Bonicos follow and film Ozwald over 12 years capturing ever part of his personal and professional life. 


The man has such an energy, charisma and passion it is hard not to be captivated by him and this film is a great insight into the man behind the cloths.  You can feel the love and passion of what he does in this film, for example the way he gets an energetic buzz about him and will dance about when he is working and creating, which reminds me of how I feel when I do some great work or have a great idea and it makes my adrenaline flow and I cant keep still. 

What I found most interesting about this film is that Ozwald bares all and is very open about the struggle and sacrifices he had to make to get to where he is today.  On the face of it Ozwald comes across as this invincible and confident force of nature, but it was inspiring to see that it wasn't all smooth sailing and that his journey included some low points like divorce, financial troubles and even a whole collection being stolen along the way.  But it was nothing that he could not over come with a lot of hard work and drive, which as someone who is one of my role models it truly inspiring and gave me confidence in that also being a Bespoke tailor that anything is possible.

I would like to thank Ozwald boateng as it was after seeing him and his work on a TV documentary that he made a couple of years ago call 'Why style Matters' it inspired me to be a Bespoke Tailor/design in the first place.  So it was an honour to be able to be invited to this special screen along with the Q&A and listen to him talk about the film.  I actual met Mr Ozwald Boateng late last year as I was passing his store and he stopped me and complimented me on my style which was probably one of the best accolades I have had so far.


While he was there he also gave as details about a design competition.  Please go and vote for my work on 'A Man's Story' Facebook page. You can see and vote for my designs by following these links and liking the page, then just click 'vote' on my designs so hopefully I have a chance to go and spend some time at the Ozwald Boateng studio.


Mood Board
Fabric and Accessories Board
Design Development
Final Designs